Colli Euganei is a collection of volcanic hills, a twenty minutes’ drive away from Padova. The hills are not connected to the Alps, which are around 50 km to the north – they stand out from the flat land around them. There is handful of picturesque churches, surrounded by small villages. The locals enjoy caffè and cigars in one of the numerous cafés of their main street. All in all, the region could not be any more different from Venice, only 90 km away, with its busy, crowded alleyways.
The villages are connected by a net of serpentine roads. These go past vineyards, olive plantations, forests, and the occasional fern-covered farmhouse or modern villa. Car parks signal the beginning of forest walking tracks. In some parts, the roads are busy: there are bikes, motorbikes, and cars; motorbikes overtaking bikes, cars overtaking bikes, cars overtaking cars, and motorbikes overtaking cars, sometimes motorbikes overtaking cars overtaking bikes. The thunder of the motorbikes can be heard from a distance. In pairs, in groups, by themselves, they drive up and down the hills in what I can only imagine as a pure adrenaline rush. To counteract the effects of sitting at a desk during the week, I choose the calmer but more strenuous option of cycling.
“Bravissima!” A guy yells to me, sailing downhill on his bike, as I pant, sweat-drenched, uphill. The hard work is rewarded by occasional breaks with amazing views. Most bike riders take the task seriously: they wear cycling clothes, and ride good, well-tended bikes.
For a more relaxing experience, the area provides walking routes and picnic areas. An excursion can be topped off with a visit to a café or trattoria. These serve local food – not the typical tourist menu, but local north-Italian food and beverages. With a bit of luck, one can find a place with outside tables and with a view.
