Tuesday, April 19, 2016

Learning Czech

I went to the Czech Republic for the first time, as an adult, last year. I spent a weekend in Prague with a good friend. I had bought a phrase book, and was intent on using it. The problem was: at the restaurants it took me longer to look up a phrase than it took my friend to just order in English. When I had finally memorised a few simple phrases (“Platit prosím!”) the waiters seemed very happy to hear someone trying to speak Czech, especially when we also showed that we had knowledge of traditional Czech beverages (Becherovka).

Czech is a Slavic language. It is not mutually intelligible with Russian: it is barely mutually intelligible with Polish, which is barely mutually intelligible with Russian. Some Czech words are similar to German, such as the word “šnek” (“Schnecke”, snail) or “cukr” (“Zucker”, sugar). Having started to learn Czech more seriously, I found that using Russian words when I don’t know the Czech word sometimes helps: sometimes, I just get my pronunciation corrected. Most often, though, I get a blank stare. And sometimes, the word means something else entirely. Especially interesting are the examples where the Czech and the Russian words have opposite meanings. When I started learning Czech, Ondra sent me an email: “Xenia je užasná!”, where the word “užasná” means “awesome” in Czech and “awful” (ужасная) in Russian. Similar examples: the word “vůně”, which means (good) smell in Czech, and “stench” in Russian (вонь). Девка means “girl” in Russian, and "whore" in Czech (děvka). The Czech word for girl is “dívka”. A foreign friend of Ondra’s once found out the hard way that when you try to compliment a girl in Czech, you need to be very careful with your pronunciation.

The orthography of Czech is shallow: almost every sound is consistently represented by the same letter. In contrast to Polish, there are hardly any multi-letter rules: when Polish uses sz or cz to represent the phonemes /ʃ/ and /tʃ/, respectively, the Czechs use the letters š and č. There is only one multi-letter grapheme: ch is pronounced as /x/. In dictionaries, ch is treated as a single letter. Double letters rarely occur: for example, the words for “address” and “professor” are spelled “adres” and “professor”, respectively. As in German and Russian, final consonants get devoiced. The hačeks on top of vowels (the little v) influence the pronunciation of the preceding consonant by palatalising it. Vowels are lengthened by čárka, the lines above the letters, or the circle in the case of ů. Pronunciation-wise, the most complex phoneme is the pronunciation of the letter ř, which is a rolled /r/ super-imposed onto a /ʒ/. Czech also has the property of having many consonants. An entire tongue twister contains no vowels: “strč prst skrz krk” (stick your finger down your throat).

I went to the Czech Republic with Ondra twice, to his hometown Liberec. After Prague and Brno, Liberec is the third-biggest city of the Czech Republic. It is surrounded by hills and nature; its landmark is the mountain Ještěd, with a 60s-style hotel, ski resort, and television tower on its top. Half-way down the mountain is a more local pub. Entering during the winter time, my glasses fogged up immediately: I had to take them off for a few minutes before I could see again. While Ondra was translating the menu, a local patron came up to as, to ask where we were from. We explained that I was from Australia, and Ondra was Czech.
“So you’re a Czech?” The local asked. “A real Czech? And your girlfriend is from Australia?? Congratulations!!” (I guess I will never know whether Ondra’s achievement was being a Czech, or dating an exotic girl.)

Visiting the local pubs gave me some more opportunity to practice my Czech. With great effort, I said to the girl at the bar: “Prosím… jedno velké pivo … a jedno malé pivo… a vodu…”
“You know I can speak English, right?” She replied, with no accent, and somewhat offended.
“Ale… chtěla by … učit česky!” I replied, which defused the situation. (Correct would have been “Chtela bych se učit česky”.)

While I’m still learning, I can use other languages to communicate when I’m in Liberec. Most younger people speak English. Older people speak sometimes German, and sometimes Russian. The Czech accent in German is very prominent. In Eastern Germany, many comedians were from (then) Czechoslovakia. Consequently, many East Germans can’t listen to a Czech accent in German without rolling on the floor with laughter. Ondra learnt German at school (more than English). Interestingly, he learnt standard German vocabulary, while his parents use words that are common in East Germany, such as “Sonnabend” for “Samstag” (Saturday). Ondra’s grandparents learnt German and Russian. Despite the historical conflicts between the Czech Republic and both Germany and Russia, they are very friendly and hospitable towards me – by now, they even gave me an affectionate nickname. They told me what they remembered of Russian: “Раз, два, три, четыре, пять, вышел зайчик погулять…” (a children’s poem), and of German: “Jeder Tscheche, der etwas leisten will, muss die deutsche Sprache erlernen.” – a phrase, which apparently they were drilled with during the second world war.

Travelling to the Czech Republic and meeting the local people has been a great experience so far. I’m looking forward to learning more of the Czech language, and gaining a deeper insight into everyday life and culture!